Last of the Good ol’ Days on Tonsai Beach

Jungle Hut Bungalows, Tonsai Beach, Thailand (300 Baht/night)

After the minibus dropped me on a street corner with no guidance for the direction of the next leg in my journey, I found myself meandering along Tonsai Beach, a place unlike any other I’ve ever been. The sandy shore is lined with bungalows filled with stacks of rain-soaked books, and there are no cars to be found. The towering cliff sides are majestic, and the constant rainfall only adds to the ambiance. Despite the limited options for activities, the soothing sound of pitter-pattering raindrops on the roof of my bungalow helped me find inner peace after a stressful travel day.

Now I’m nestled in nearly the last bungalow on the hill of this serene paradise wondering how land-locked cities create a more island-like vibe. Travel helps you realize just how little requires attention. Travel to destination, find modest accommodation, discover restaurant with delicious Thai soup, walk about, write, read, nap… repeat.

I felt a sense of solitude on this serene island. But that feeling didn’t last long, as I soon met Marco, an Italian who invited me to join him and his friends, Giovanni (Italy), Michael (England), and Natalie (Germany) for coffee. They shared an incredible travel tale about their bicycle ride from Italy to Australia and mentioned that India presented them with the most obstacles. It was nice to have some friends on this tiny beach.

Despite the inefficiencies and lack of modern amenities, I find it hard to be critical of the Thai way of life. The Thai economy allows for the preservation of culture and unique flavor within each community’s identity, rather than the cookie cutter franchise model that can be found in towns in the U.S. experiment.  Families in Tonsai live and work together in their homes, running hotels, restaurants, massage parlors, tourist bookings, kayak rentals, excursion guides, scuba diving and rock climbing businesses.

There is a greater transparency in Thailand when it comes to knowing where goods and services are produced and who the compensation compensates. It is rare to find people chained to phones, desks, and screens, collecting paychecks with promises of generous retirement package promises. The people here are friendly and welcoming, and it is uplifting to be in a foreign land where three out of four people I pass acknowledge my presence and a vast number say “hello.” It’s so uplifting in this foreign land.

After a light breakfast, I climbed the slippery path and tip toed through rocky waters to Railay Beach – another beautiful beach though a bit more developed.

I decided to experiment with rationed spending, eating, and drinking while on this island. It’s almost 3pm and I still haven’t eaten. Perhaps I will have just one meal today. I wandered down to the beach to catch the sunrise peeking over the cliff summits, and each island I visit allows me the opportunity to reinvent myself. While I stayed in hostels and took motorbike tours with new friends from all over Europe in Koh Lanta, the island of Tonsai has allowed me to become a borderline hermit, primarily due to my rationing efforts. I am observing exactly how far I can push the limits of my body and how to distract my mind to pass the time. My facial hair is at its longest length that I can recall, and my thoughts take on new forms when I am depleted of sleep or food. I haven’t watched TV since my arrival 18 days ago, which is also contributing to my sense of calmness.