Train from mainland India to Rameswaram Island
As I boarded the train that would take me from mainland India to the sacred island of Rameswaram, a sense of new territory jitters washed over me. The lady sitting across from me began to sing Hindu mantra prayers in a repetitive manner, only further emphasizing the spiritual significance of this island.
Chinnasamy Lodge, Rameswaram Island, India (350 Rupees)
Upon arriving at Chinnasamy Lodge, I was welcomed by the owner and shown to my room, which was located on the top floor and boasted a rooftop deck with a breathtaking ocean view, as well as a perfect vantage point to observe the local villagers going about their daily routines. As I settled in, I couldn’t help but smile as I looked at pictures of my nieces and nephews back home, continuing the tradition of building massive snowmen in the winter. It reminded me of the importance of tradition, repetition, and community in creating something that goes beyond traditional definitions of economic utility.
Sunrise walk to Dhanushkodi Beach
Prepare the mind for feats never before considered possible. New echelons of physical strength and mental fortitude to be reached.
The next morning, I woke up before dawn to set out for Dhanushkodi Beach on foot. I bought two donuts to sustain me on the journey and began running in the darkness just past 5:00am. The sign read 20km, but little did I know what lay ahead. At the 10th kilometer, the road abruptly ended and I was greeted by a Canadian woman named Frances.
Together, we walked through a fishing village and an abandoned town that had been destroyed by a cyclone in 1964. We finally reached the tip of the beach, where I met three Russians who spoke no English. After 17.5 miles of walking, I was exhausted but exhilarated. I took a swim in the ocean, and held my breath for an impossibly long time, dismissing the desire to gasp for air, enjoying the serenity beneath the surface.
Authentic village experience in Dhanushkodi
Frances and I had an authentic village experience, eating a fresh fish, rice and spice meal alongside the locals. She gave them an energy crystal, which was quite a beautiful exchange. She suggested I attend a 10-day silent Vipassana meditation camp up north. I contemplated walking back, but the spitting rain and the company of good conversation with an English speaker caused me to take the bus, which treaded through the terrifying water depths.
Serene morning atop the rooftop deck
Complete calmness, waking up sitting on the rooftop deck in silence, eyes closed, listening to the world pass me by. I transcended to previous moments of complete calmness… recalling memories of sitting at Sri Aurobindo’s Ashram and Bira Beach, Indonesia. My meditative moments building on one another. Perfect harmony of body, mind, and spirit, sharpening each one day by day. My only commitments for the day included setting out for the sacred temples of Rameswaram Island, maintaining creative inspiration, and fueling the body with knowledge and simple food.
Arulmigu Ramanatha Swami Temple
The Arulmigu Ramanatha Swami Temple temple resembled more of an amusement park with turnstile lines, and 25 rupees for a wristband which bought visitors 22 teethams – a ritual where visitors dumped holy water on their heads from 22 wells. I hesitate and most often refuse to pay for temple visits. I have yet to feel a strong connection while visiting Hindu temples.
Despite my initial hesitation, I decided to purchase a wristband and observe the spectacle of the teethams. But, as I watched the crowds of people rushing from well to well, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was simply going through the motions without truly connecting to the spiritual significance of the ritual.
Feeling underwhelmed, I decided to make my exit from the temple and take a stroll through a nearby village. I struck up conversations with a few schoolchildren and eventually stumbled upon an empty beach. It was a welcome change of pace from the bustling temple and I took the opportunity to sit in silence for 30 minutes, my eyes closed, posture erect, and fingers in the meditation style. As I focused on calming my inner voice, I felt a sense of serenity wash over me.
I reflected on my experiences at the temple and the beach and realized that my purpose as a traveler shifts frequently and with considerable uncertainty. But, one thing was clear to me in that moment: true connection and peace can only be found within oneself. I spent a total of 605 rupees on the day, but the lessons I learned were priceless.
