Bound for Vientiane, Laos
As I settled into my new home in Bangkok, I found myself becoming increasingly familiar with the city’s endless sights and experiences. However, after 1 year and 4 months, the city began to feel stale. With my tourist visa expired, I decided to renew it in Vientiane, Laos.
As I awaited the train bound for Nong Khai, I wandered down to the end of the platform to snap a few photos of an elephant-shaped bush.
The train was spacious, with ample legroom, air conditioning, and a variety of food vendors walking up and down the aisle.
A Thai train officer sat a row in front of me, his uniform hat resting in the seat beside him.
I exchanged glances with an older Thai man seated across from me as he pulled out a few pills from his plastic bag. A young boy behind me curiously scanned the passing farms through the dirt-caked windows. His father wished aloud that he could get out and clean the windows so they could see better.
Contemplating nirvana – the desire for more becomes the desire for less
As the train chugged along, my thoughts turned to the concept of nirvana and the complete cessation of desire. I watched as a Buddhist monk walked slowly from the street to the train platform, hands clasped. I found myself contemplating the excess possessions I had acquired during my time in Bangkok and the desire to discard my suits and ties. I was content with the small backpack I had packed for this short journey. In the past, I had constantly desired more – a more luxurious car, a more posh pad, shinier shoes. But now, all of that failed to satisfy me. The desire for more had become the desire for less.
The rail car continued on, passing Khon Khoen, and I found it almost too chilly in the air-conditioned railcar. The ticket agent at the Bangkok Railway Station did not even offer me a 3rd class ticket. An older Thai gentleman sat next to me, wearing grey slacks, a fancy wristwatch, and a phone cover with “Police” written on it. He smiled and chatted with the train officer, wrinkles forming around his eyes as he checked his wristwatch and handed over his tickets.
As the train moved north, the landscape outside the dusty window shifted from dull-brown parched farm fields to thick green grass and a variety of trees. I envisioned the lush green landscapes, mountains, waterfalls and scenic vistas that awaited exploration in Laos.
Upon arriving at Nong Khai Train Station, I was pleased to find that there were no touts, but I did spot some rad motorcycle tuk-tuks available.
Nong Khai was a slow-moving town, the temperature almost worthy of long sleeves. I passed a night market on the way to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge as the sun began to dip below the horizon.
Crossing the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge – Stamping out of Thailand and stamping into Laos
Crossing the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge was a breeze. There was no line as I stamped out of Thailand and purchased a compulsory 20 baht bus ticket across the bridge. I filled out the visa-on-arrival form and handed it to the agent, who asked for $36 US dollars. I explained that I only had Thai baht, which resulted in a higher fee of 1,500 baht, almost $8 more at the current exchange rate (an enviable business model). Passport stamped and on through an immigration check, and I’m absolutely thrilled to arrive in my 9th Southeast Asian country!
First impressions of Laos
Fifty meters past the immigration checkpoint sat a green and white public bus, # 14. The bus ride was 6,000 kip. I only had baht and did not know the exchange rate. I handed over 50 baht and the lady returned 5,000 kip. As we made the 20km ride into the Vientiane city center, I observed more signs in English than I’m used to seeing in Thailand, dusty roads, Beer Lao signs, and ample Samsung signs and billboards.
As the bus rolled into the city center of Vientiane, I met a man named Bom, who was a local taxi driver with four children. He warned me of the dangers of taking the bus to Luang Prabang, but I had already made up my mind. As we approached the city center, Bom pointed out the direction of the Mekong River and the morning market, giving me my bearings for the journey ahead.
With no kip and no map, I set out on foot in the pitch dark, searching for cheap accommodations. The city was eerily quiet, but as I walked, I caught a glimpse of the Patuxay Monument in the distance. Intrigued, I decided to take a closer look. As I approached the monument, I picked up a frangpiani from the ground and smelled its fragrance for a morale boost. The monument was stunning, with a dazzling reflection in the pool beneath it. I placed the flower petal on the water, used my final 2% of battery to snap a few photos, and was happy later to see how perfectly everything fit.
After admiring the colossal monument, I walked in what I sensed was the right direction. I stopped at a hotel and asked the two front desk receptionists for directions, but they informed me that I was well off course and a long distance from the tourist area of Vientiane. Despite feeling hungry, I pressed on.
Eventually, I reached the cheap-priced guesthouse area around Wat Mixay and found lodging in Haysoke Guesthouse’s dorm room for 50,000 kip. The rooms were basic and clean, but my roommate had a peculiar smell.
Early the next morning, I woke up and immediately set out on foot to the Royal Thai Embassy. To my surprise, there was no line or anyone around. As I checked my notes, I realized I had gone to the wrong place. As I stood looking confused at a map, a kind Laotion man kindly pointed me in the direction of the Thai Consulate Office.
As I rummaged through my backpack, I realized I had left my passport photos required for the visa form back at the guesthouse. While the signs in the visa office warned to use the vendors outside at one’s own risk, I found a reliable passport photo shop just outside. They efficiently took my photo, telling me not to smile and printed my photos, as well as made copies of my passport which were required for the visa application. Despite printing off a form from the Royal Thai Embassy website, the officials informed me that I needed to fill out a more updated form. The photos cost 100 baht and the copies cost 10 baht. At 8:30 AM, I assertively made my way to the front of the line and submitted the visa application and passport and I was told to come back tomorrow.
Meeting a Novice Monk at Pha That Luang
As I sat beneath a tree, taking refuge from the scorching heat of the sun, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the soothing sound of chirping birds and the occasional cool breeze brushing against my skin. I had just completed a serene 1-hour sensation scan of my body within the main temple near Pha That Luang. The self-observation practice involved scanning for subtle gusts of wind on my skin, an experience that left me feeling rejuvenated and refreshed.
As I was lost in my thoughts, a novice monk, around 15 years old, approached me with a curious look on his face. He asked me for three pieces of advice for a school project he was working on, and handed me a piece of paper to jot down my thoughts. Without hesitation, I wrote:
- Do good to others with no expectation of anything in return.
- When meeting someone, teach them something and learn something from them.
- Do something you love to do each day.
I shared my experience with Vipassana meditation during my travels in India and suggested he teach temple visitors about this meditation technique. He tied a bracelet around each of my wrists and wished me good luck, success, and good health. We parted ways and I felt a strong sense of connection with him, as if our brief encounter would generate some meaningful ripple effects.
Afterwards, I walked aimlessly for a bit, chasing butterflies for photos. With no food or water and the hot sun melting my skin, I could smell my own burning flesh.
At That Dam, I started to blackout and realized it was time to quickly exchange my baht for kips and had a meal.
I took a nap at the hostel to recharge before going out to explore the temples Wat Sisaket, Wat Ho Phra Kaew, and Wat Si Muang. I felt a strong sense of reverence at each temple. I watched in awe as artisans meticulously worked on the deteriorating wall murals at Sisaket, wondering if they realized the significance of their intense concentration. I observed a nice collection of antique Buddha images at Wat Ho Phra Kaew and watched as families lit candles and bowed three times at Wat Si Muang.
For my pre-sunset dinner, I tangled with a very spicy seafood salad, the heat causing sweat to pour down my face. The waiter chuckled as he asked if it was spicy, and I couldn’t help but laugh at my own expense.
I caught the sunset along the Mekong river, walking past night markets until fatigue set in. My head began to ache and I nearly vomited, a clear sign that I should hydrate better tomorrow.
I went to the visa consulate office at 8:30AM to pick up my passport, and encountered a much larger line than the previous day. I made my way to the front, directly to the pickup window. The lady at the window pointed to my receipt and I saw that passport pickup was not until 1:30 PM. I took the news in stride and decided to take a return trip to Pha That Luang. On my way, I saw a homeless man sitting on the sidewalk, in the same spot as the day before. I took the water bottle from the side pocket of my backpack, handed it to him and told myself not to pat myself on the back as I walked to Pha That Luang.
Chasing butterflies outside Pha That Luang
I sat beneath the tree, escaping from the sweltering sun and feeling parched. I had kept my phone in my backpack until then. Determining one’s purpose while solo traveling isn’t always so clear, so I came up with arbitrary objectives. My objective for that day was to capture a mid-flight butterfly, this time closer to Pha That Luang. I tied my shirt around my head and paced back and forth, climbed into bushes, ran around in circles snapping frantically with my cell phone. The souvenir vendors outside the stupa walls must have thought I had gone completely mad. It was 1:30PM, I hadn’t captured any mid-flight butterfly, and my energy was completely depleted.
On my way out of Pha That Luang, I walked directly into a sprinkler to cool off and got some neat photos in the process.
As the sun beat down on me, I made my way to the visa office, jogging past the growing crowd of impatient travelers. Walking directly to the front window, I handed over my receipt and pulled out my wallet, ready to pay the fee for my visa. But to my surprise, the lady behind the counter informed me that the tourist visa was free. My mission accomplished, and with hardly any effort at all.
Enjoying panoramic views of Vientiane atop the Patuxay Monument
With my visa secured, I set out to make the most of my remaining time in Vientiane. Making my way once again to the Patuxay Monument, I paid the 3,000 kip ticket price to climb to the summit for a breathtaking view of the city. As I stood at the top, taking in the panoramic view, I couldn’t help but notice the sharpness of my focus. An hour of sensation scanning meditation had left me with a laser-like attention to detail. I spent the next hour snapping photos, nearly filling my phone’s memory card with pictures of the same stunning vista.
Exhausted, I made my way back to the tourist zone of Vientiane, passing through the refreshing mist of the sprinklers along the way.
As always, I waited until the last minute to book my bus ticket to Luang Prabang. It was a destination I had longed to visit for years, ever since seeing postcards of the city’s famous Tak Bat ceremony. And now, as I prepared to make my way there, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement at the thought of finally checking it off my travel bucket list.
