1-4-15 Sree Lodge, Bijapur, India (150 Rupees)
As the sun rises over the ancient city of Bijapur, I embrace the uncertainty of my day ahead. Waking each morning with no set plan, simply allow my intuition to guide me. Travel involves a series of peaks and valleys, depending on internal and external yes’s and no’s. Do I breathe deeply in this moment? Yes. How will I respond to rickshaws and knick-knack sellers? No. These answers, no matter how insignificant they seem, change the course, perhaps dramatically altering my life as well as others I will or won’t meet down the road. Before I leave for my next destination, I have made a habit of “praying” for guidance and to time my movements so that I leave at the “right” time.
Camaraderie of the 3rd class train en route to Bijapur
On a packed, third-class train en route to Bijapur, I captivate the attention of an entire train car with friendly banter with a 7 year old boy and speak at length with a guy who does marketing for a pharmaceutical company focused on pain management.
First impressions of Bijapur
Upon arriving in Bijapur, I am immediately struck by the energy of the city and the warmth of its people. I make friends around every corner, from a civil engineer who helped develop Dubai to a group of men practicing a unique form of meditation at Gajan Mahal. As I explore the historical monuments of Bijapur, from Gol Gumbaz to the grand Jamia Masjid, I am struck by the sense of community and connection I feel with the city and its inhabitants.
During the evening hours, I spotted just 3 women rushing to their destination while men packed around tea stalls. I contemplate the explanation for why very few women could be seen walking the street at night.
Bed bugs claiming victory over my pack
I helplessly watch as bed bugs crawl all over my pack. I spot dozens from a few feet away – their invasion claims total victory. Prefer “basic” rooms, but this crosses the line into the foul category. I decided to stay another night in this bed bug infested room. It appears as though the bugs haven’t made it to this side of the room, yet. The bed bug infestation ordeal in my hotel room tests my resilience and determination to continue on. But even in these moments, I remind myself that the journey is about more than just the destination, and that my experiences, good and bad, will shape who I am and what I take away from this trip.
Sunrise yoga on the lawn of Bara Kaman
Despite the discomfort, I find solace in the small moments, like observing a group of yogis practicing on the lawn of Bara Kaman at sunrise. As the sun rises on another day of my journey, I am greeted by the cool crisp air of Bijapur. My intuition guides me through the streets, taking in the sights and sounds of this ancient city. I am captivated by the grandeur of the historical monuments that dot the city, and surprised to find that I am the only tourist in sight.
As I wander the streets, I am struck by the energy and sense of community that pervades the city. I strike up countless conversations with locals, from merchants at the Shastri Market to the group of men meditating at Gajan Mahal using a technique of rapid deep breaths – perhaps a technique I would like to learn. Each encounter is a new opportunity to learn and grow, and I am grateful for the connections I make.
Highlights of Bijapur: Jamia Masjid and Gol Gumbaz
While I criss-crossed the ancient city of Bijapur, my senses were awakened by the bustling energy of the streets. I marvel once again at the iconic Gol Gumbaz, an architectural marvel with its massive dome and whispering gallery. I couldn’t help but be awestruck by its grandeur.
As I wandered the streets, I struck up conversations with the friendly locals, exchanging small talk as I made my way to my next destination, the historic Jamia Masjid mosque. The sense of community in Bijapur was palpable, and I found myself drawn to the lively Shastri Market, where I had great personal interactions with the merchants.
Battling Bed bug infestation
I continued my battle with bed bug infestation that made for another uncomfortable night’s sleep. But, as I reflected on my experiences, I couldn’t help but smile, knowing that this trip had been an adventure filled with unexpected twists and turns. Each day involves an entirely new set of variables and challenges. How I react determines my inner mindset. Task #1 for today was to flick off as many bed bugs from my pack as I can. Despite no tangible return on investment for instances such as this, anytime I recall memories from this trip, a smile forms and I get a giddy feeling.
Sunrise in Bijapur to Pune to sleeping on a bench in Mumbai
As the sun rose over the ancient city of Bijapur, I set out on my journey to Pune. I boarded a train and embarked on the 375km journey, taking in the breathtaking scenery as we chugged along. After a short stop in Solapur, I continued on to Pune.
Upon arriving, I was disappointed to find that the hotel prices were exorbitant. As I was considering my options, I met a young man named Iki. Despite the language barrier, we struck up a conversation and he invited me to stay with him and his family.
Iki lived on the sidewalk beneath a makeshift tent just a few blocks from Pune Junction. The noise of honking cars and scooters was constant, but his family had made a cozy home for themselves amidst the chaos. Iki was kind enough to offer me a meal before I continued on my journey.
Families sleeping on the sidewalks in Mumbai
As I boarded a non/AC bus to Mumbai, I couldn’t shake the image of Iki and his family living on the street. The 170km bus ride felt never-ending, and by the time I arrived in Mumbai, it was well past midnight.
Wandering the streets, I was struck by the sight of families sleeping on the sidewalks in all directions. Entire streets were lined so densely with people, there was not room for one more. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of sadness and injustice as I walked through the slums in the middle of the night.
Escaping a midnight mugging in Mumbai
As I made my way through the winding streets of Mumbai’s slums, the darkness seemed to close in around me. The only sounds were the echo of my footsteps and the distant hum of voices. But then I heard something else, the soft padding of feet behind me. I quickened my pace, my heart pounding in my chest.
But the steps behind me grew louder, closer. I zigged and zagged, trying to lose my pursuer, but he was relentless. Just when I thought I had lost him, he caught up to me. “Give me all your money,” he growled, brandishing a knife. I didn’t hesitate. I tightened the straps on my pack and took off at a sprint, my years of distance running and racing training kicking in.
I darted through the maze of streets, dodging garbage and debris, my heart pounding in my chest. But I couldn’t shake him. He was getting closer, closer. Just when I thought he would catch me, I spotted a tea shop with a flickering light on in the distance. I bolted towards it and threw myself inside, gasping for breath. The shop owner and his customers looked up in surprise. I explained my situation and they offered me a seat and a cup of tea. I sat there, sipping the warm liquid and trying to steady my breathing.
I was safe for now. But as the night turned into dawn, I couldn’t shake the feeling of unease. I knew there were so many people out there just like the man who had tried to mug me, struggling to survive in the harsh streets of the city. As I made my way to the train station, I couldn’t help but think about the blind, homeless man I had seen finding his way to a bench earlier that night. I knew that my encounter with danger was just a small glimpse into the daily struggles of those less fortunate. It was a humbling and sobering realization that would stay with me long after my journey had ended.
