Marveling at the ancient caves in Ajanta and Ellora

 5-4-15   Ajanta, India   24,014 steps   12.57 miles

After spending a restless night dozing on a train bench in Mumbai, I boarded a packed train bound for Mumbai Central. Unfortunately, I soon realized I had boarded the wrong train and had to confirm my mistake with a few other travelers amidst the chaos. I then boarded the correct train to Dadar Terminal, but once again found myself on the wrong train. I quickly disembarked and boarded the correct train to Aurangabad.

Looking disheveled enough to generate sympathy

I arrived in Aurangabad, exhausted and disheveled, with a filthy, full beard and dirt under my fingernails. A man on the train asked if I was alright and if I was okay with money. I must have looked like a bum. After a long journey, I walked 4 km to the bus stand and took a bus to Ajanta.

With 475km of travel under my belt, I happened upon a great chat with an Indian guy staying at my hotel. He suggested I read “The Art of Living” and do yoga in Delhi. We covered many subjects, but the concept of rebirth and reincarnation kept coming up in conversation as we discussed the idea of changing bodies but maintaining the same soul, and where these memories from past lives came from.

Fascinated by the Ajanta Caves

I wandered amongst stunning sculptures and paintings from Buddha’s life as well as his Jatakas (rebirths). “The caves were built in two phases, the first phase starting around the 2nd century BCE, while the second phase was built around 400–650 CE.” I meditated for an hour in front of a Buddha statue as groups came in and out behind me.

Atop a mountain overlooking the Ajanta Caves

On top of a mountain overlooking the Ajanta Caves, I experienced moments of incredible freedom and happiness. I realized that my past self continues to give my future self tools to survive and thrive.

Honeybee attack

The road to my destination wasn’t without obstacles, I had to take a bus as honeybees were attacking folks on the road, and I witnessed 4 guys laying on the road, a fire burning alongside them to put smoke in the air. All we are is the sum of our experiences.

Mad dash to see the Ellora Caves before sunset

The bus journey from Ajanta to Aurangabad was followed by a bus ride to Ellora Caves. As Ancient History Encyclopedia states, “The Ellora Caves are listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is celebrated for its Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain temples and monuments which were carved from the local cliff rock in the 6th to 8th century CE. The most spectacular example is the 8th century CE Kailasa temple which, at 32 metres high, is the largest rock-cut monument in the world.”

I raced through all the caves with my backpack on as the sun began to set.

Removal from the AC train car

The bus ride back to Aurangabad was followed by a chaotic walk to the train station where I met Manosh and chilled out for a bit. I started my train ride in an AC train car, desperate for some rest, but the conductor woke me up and grabbed my arm to remove me. I then made my way to the sleeper car, but when I found an empty seat, a man woke me up and claimed it was his. I spent the rest of the night on the filthy ground in the area between train cars.

The train ride from Bhopal to Sanchi was followed by a search for a place to stay. I found Dharmsala Guesthouse for just 100 Rupees/night and had a nice interaction with a guy in the vegetable market, named Sonew.