26-5-15 Likir Monastery School, Likir, Ladakh
As I entered the courtyard of the monastery school, I was greeted with the sounds of laughter and the thud of a volleyball being hit back and forth. I joined in the game, trying my best not to show any signs of frustration or fatigue in front of the young monk children. I sprinted all out whenever the ball needed to be retrieved.
The monastery school, which houses 32 novice monks, also offers an English language program.
During my stay, I had the pleasure of meeting the English instructor, Mira, from the Netherlands. She had arrived only a few weeks ago, but was already filled with facts and seemed to enjoy her time teaching there. As I played volleyball, she started a game of field hockey. She had studied law and economics, spent time in Rome, and even rowed in college.
I also met my first friends from Luxembourg, Gille and Lauren. They told me that traveling in the northeast part of India involved a lot of improvisation, but that it was worth it for the challenging modes of transport. I also met a German, Chris and a French couple who had embarked on a trek upon arriving in Likir.
As we enjoyed an evening tea, the headmaster instructed me to go to my room. Later, the monk teacher informed me that dinner would be served in my room. And thus began an evening of solitude.
Everyone says Julley!
I took a lovely walk through the village of Likir, observing terrace farms and livestock wandering about. The villagers eagerly greeted me with warm smiles and “Julley” as I passed. They were beautiful people, and I found myself envying the simplicity of their lives.
I met a lady living at the very end of the road, who started speaking Ladakhi and I resorted to the default “I’m from America” response, assuming she had asked me where I was from.
I visited the Likir Monastery, which was established in 1065 by Lama Duwang Chosje. The history of the monastery was preserved in the form of ornate statues and wall paintings.
27-5-15 Likir Monastery School, Likir, Ladakh
Miralla invited me to join her on an adventure to Pangong Tso. This sparked the beginning of a truly unforgettable adventure.
I thought about seeing the Chinese border on the other side of the lake, with bright blues and greens, flickering across the water and with Himalayan peaks reflected. I sat in solitude near Nawang Guest House in the next village over.
On my long walk back, I felt the 3,700m elevation in my lungs. I admired the beautifully constructed homes, all adorned with Om Mani Padme Hum prayer flags.
Stupas were situated across the landscape, some crudely constructed, others immaculate and towering masterpieces. Some were white with cement color peeking through paint splatters, while others stood in a row, in light blue, light yellow, and white.
I hiked up the path behind Likir Monastery and sat on the ridge of a crudely constructed white splatter stupa.
Alternating between closed eyes and open eyes – scanning for sensation while eyes closed, open and admire the landscape with the massive Buddha statues’s back turned to me.
High peaks and moments of self-reflection. Not an ounce of hurry in my step. Each passerby exclaimed Julley with a genuine all-knowing smile.
Throughout the night, as I woke up, I pulled back my curtain to witness Buddha’s ever-present stoic expression, eyelids half-shut, an ambiguous grin, not ever suffering, not yearning, but a calm nirvana.
The monk children were playing outside and I thought perhaps I would join them. Blissful moments.
