June 10th, 2015: 48,750 steps, 25.19 miles
June 11th, 2015: 83,207 steps, 42.96 miles
My body and mind are constantly at odds. As my body endures suffering, my mind revels in the body’s ability to overcome yet another, otherwise impossible obstacle. “No bus to Hemis,” the Ladakhi man replies, barely understandable. I pull out my map, needing to make a last-minute change of plans. “What about Phyang?”… “No bus.” I pause, staring blankly at each departing bus. I consider blindly boarding one, but instead, I set out on foot, fortunately having stowed my main pack in the hotel. I begin to walk down the hill, retracing the Pangong Lake route.
I walk past circle after circle of people smashing rocks into smaller bits and say “Julley!” to each one. A lady asks, “Where are you going?” I reply, “I’m not sure yet. This way,” pointing to the direction down the hill. “Choglamsur,” she offers. “Sounds like a cool place,” I reply, continuing along uncertainly. I pass a group of men peering into the fence at the Mountain Tamers military complex. I join them and observe a man running with an unimpressive gait. “How far is he running?” I inquire of the group.
I keep telling my body, “Don’t make a reaction as pain sharpens its razor sharp blade of sensation.” For a few strides my gait wavers, adjusted for weakness.
Premature bow. You are only as good as your boring sure-sheltered lifestyle. Bitter truths swallowed to face the truth. Love pours forth from the cauldron of growing up faced with the mortal truth, realities mingled alongside scrabble games, big pharma loses its golden touch. Contract research organizations phased and dreary-eyed. Dog snuggles await. Indiana nights lulled to sleep by the crickets. Jotting out memories, maintaining hope in the road ahead.
13-6-15 Hotel Firdous Leh, Ladakh
Start from the beginning, scratch symbols in the dirt. Big Buddhas etched in the rocks near Shey Monastery. I traced my hand along the rivets, for a moment connected to the past. Nature runs its course, the spirit remains. Build temples amongst the clouds. Heaven is a place on earth.
Let this body endure pain in this moment, the sensation will pass. As clouds form patterns above, sheets of rain pour forth, testing the limits of my flimsy leopard polka dot umbrella. I aim it at the direction of the wind.
I saw a towering, ornate Buddha at Thicksey Monastery. As the sun set, I decided to walk on to Stakna Monastery.
I tried to secure a room at Mila Homestay, but the guest rooms no longer operated. I had a nice chat with the house owner, who offered a much-welcomed hot chai tea which I dipped Ladakhi cookies into. She stressed the importance of finding a guru.
Daylight fading fast, yet to find lodging, and walking back to Thicksey Nyerma out of the question at this late hour. Went down a long village road well off the main road. Walked down a dirt path stumbling on a monastery and haggled with the head nun with shaved head as she stared at me stoically refusing to budge from her 800 rupee price tag. I told her I was in for a “long and cold night.” Man vs. wild mindset kicks in to full gear. Time to set up camp in this unforgiving environment.
Temperatures dip precipitously, I begin gathering twigs and dry bits of tinder. Just two chugs of water remaining and only stagnate natural water nearby, unlikely circumstances, a nice test of the will. Find an ole feed sack bag to sleep on, and a half body’s length plastic sheet to shield me from the frigid wind. Set stones in a circle and retraced my steps to the matches I saw lying on the ground earlier near the campsite. 3 stone walls, a warm fire, and a roof of shooting stars and far away planes flying overhead impossibly fast. I root for the sun’s arrival. Happy 4 months in India.
